Just a stone’s throw from the A465, or the ‘Heads of the Valleys Road’, lies the National Nature Reserve (NNR) of Cwm Clydach.
From the moment you park, near the remnants of the iron works towards the bottom of the reserve [between Gilwern and Brynmawr] the gentle sound of the river grabs you almost immediately.
The foliage, the sparkle of the sun through the canopy – this is a relaxed world, one which was recently featured in the ‘Top 50 Valleys Essentials’ by the ‘Rough Guide to Wales’ author Mike Parker.
In the 18th and early 19th centuries, things couldn’t have been more different. The cycle path that now runs through the heart of the reserve would have been a tramway and then later a steam rail track.
Cwm Clydach has changed remarkably since the 19th century. (Photograph courtesy of Gareth Owen)
Further up the valley there was coal mining, and limestone mining. The ever present pounding of the Iron Mill would have echoed through the Valley giving the entire area a distinctly Orwellian feel – thrumming with grimy, industrial energy.
Of course, the passage of time has changed things, and for the better. In the summer and autumn, the reserve echoes to a rare chorus of bird song, with green and spotted woodpecker, nuthatch, kestrel, sparrowhawk and tawny owls all vying for their place amidst the 400 year old beech trees that cling to the steep sided slopes of the valley.
Continuing along the river walk, the steady climb up the old rail path route begins to provide a real sense of perspective as you rise above the valley canopy, eventually offering a glimpse of the surrounding landscape.
An alternative route starts from a local housing estate, winding its way along the river and into the heart of the reserve. Drawn by the roaring waterfalls, boots are a good idea for this part of the journey as things can quickly get slippery underfoot as you continue to explore deeper underneath the canopy of trees.
A walk through Cwm Clydach grants you a rare escape from the hustle and bustle. There’s a degree of magic at work here. A landscape that was. A landscape that is.
See also
Cwm Clydach information – CCW website
Visit the CCW website for more information on Cwm Clydach, with further details for visitors and links to our online web maps.
Watch our quick guide video!
On our last casual stroll through Cwm Clydach, we filmed some of the route and the surrounding countryside. So put the kettle on, sit back and see what you’re missing [Film courtesy of Luke Maggs].
One of my favourite places – there’s more drama packed into this cleft in the landscape than there is in many a national theatre. On the edge of the most densely populated corner of Wales, it still has a surprising number of secret corners where nature reigns – or else is in the process of reclaiming what man has contrived to alter.
One of the advantages of age is the delight in revisitng a site that you havent been to for 30 years and looking at the changes.