In September 2010 my boyfriend and I decided to do something we’d been talking about for years – walk the Anglesey coastal path.
I’d always considered myself something of an ‘outdoorsy’ type – but it dawned on me that merely talking about the fantastic landscapes on our doorstep [and convincing myself I was some kind of Tolkienesque ranger] probably didn’t qualify.
So, I aimed to put that right!
Promptly booking a week off work, we packed our tent and provisions and donned our walking boots. Could we make it? How long would it take? What challenges awaited us? Well, there was only one way to find out. Our little quest began.
Living in Holyhead we were able to start our jaunt on foot. Walking straight out the front door, a short stride or two took us to St Cybi’s Church – the official starting point of the Anglesey coastal path.
After traversing the Celtic Gateway Bridge and bobbing round the Penrhos Coastal Park we came to the ‘Cob’ – a causeway linking Holy Island to the Isle of Anglesey. The weather was holding up. And I wasn’t as ravenous as I thought I might be.
However, we then came up against our first troll on the Gorad Road. I say troll, what I mean is that the path hadn’t been developed in this area – and it would have required us to walk on busy roads with no pavements – too perilous by far!
Quickly improvising [not cheating] my sister kindly ferried us in her car for some three miles to Llanfachraeth. Following the Aber Alaw Estuary for a mile or so [which was breathtaking] we had a break at Porth Tywyn-Mawr, where we had to break open the first of our provisions.
Standing in the corn field near the Aber Alaw Estuary
The lack of Elven bread forced us to introduce a small sip of brandy from my boyfriend’s hip flask, a necessary evil.
Quite weary, but nonetheless chuffed, we finally got to Church Bay having covered 15 miles. We hoisted our humble little tent and managed to squeeze in at The Lobster Pot, where the food was very welcome.
Stretching our aching limbs in the morning, we set off once more – perhaps a little disappointed that the path around Carmel Head was closed. Instead, we cut across land to Hen Borth, stopping for squashed baguettes and coffee at Cemlyn.
The last stretch of the day saw us pass ‘the Magic Gardens’ and Wylfa. Day two seemed to have raced in, and I felt a little surprised to find myself pitching camp again, near Cemaes Bay.
Day three broke. Passing Llanbadrig Church and Middle Mouse Island to the abandoned brick works at Porth Wen, we carried on round to Bull Bay. Though we were having a fantastic time the burden of our quest seemed to kick in a little – and the first blisters duly appeared.
The abandoned Porth Wen Brickworks near Cemaes Bay
A vision appeared in the form of the Lastra Farm Hotel, and we soon found ourselves dreamily sampling some of their locally sourced produce [okay, and their lovely hot showers, fluffy towels and comfy beds].
A hearty breakfast volleyed us into day four, and we set off through Amlwch Port, passing Point Lynas light house and onwards onto Anglesey’s East coast. There, we passed Ynys Dulas and headed inland for a spell until we arrived at Traeth Dylas.
The sky looked a little troubled, so we set up camp again, and aimed to keep warm. Dusk quickly settled. Sure enough, heavy rain roused us from our dreams on day five.
Making a break for it between downpours, the fifth day was clearly sent to test us. About six miles in, near Moelfre, we slung our tired and wet bodies into a hastily rented caravan.
It had provided good cover during the night, and we woke refreshed – starting day six early. Passing Traeth Bychan we walked confidently into Benllech where we stopped at ‘The Ship Inn’.
Spying the lunch-time menu, we shared a wry smile. That was it. Our quest was over – we had made it.
The Anglesey Coastal Path sign helps guide walkers throughout the route
Despite the rain, and the blisters [and perhaps even a few necessary short-cuts] the great views, friendly people and wonderful food that’s right on our doorstep made the entire experience very rewarding.
Moreover, the experience of throwing ourselves into the dreamy Welsh landscape – across fifty miles and six days – seems to connect you nature, in a way you probably can’t anticipate. The ultimate reward at the end of our quest was just that. It resets the clock. It is deeply therapeutic, and a welcome change to the pace of modern working life.
Fret not through readers. My quest comes with a sequel, or two. We plan to walk from Red Wharf Bay to Menai Bridge over the winter, with perhaps another April adventure to follow should we tackle the Menai Bridge to Holyhead route along the South coast.
Well done Jenny, as a resident of the island I’d thought this could make a good ‘circular’ walk without needing to use the car (I live a few hundred yards from the coastal path). What I actually do is savour the best weather and therefore walk much of the coastal path but not all on the same trip. I suppose living on the island, nowhere on the coast is especially far away to get to as a start point.